upperarms-300x225I recently installed Eibach Pro springs and dampers (see previous post) on my Challenger.  Typically when lowering a car you’ll end up with an increase in the amount of negative camber.  Negative camber means the top of the tires are going to be leaning inward.  The question on the increase in camber becomes, does it increase so much the camber values are beyond factory spec.

In my case the answer was yes.  The negative camber had increased on the right side to just over the factory specifications for maximum camber.  The left side was in spec but just barely.

I didn’t want to live with the out-of-spec problem, even if it was just barely out-of-spec so I started looking at upper control arms that would provide enough adjustment to get things lined up the way they are supposed to be.

I discovered two makers of adjustable upper control arms, SPC and Eibach.  Looking at various pictures online it looked to me like they were actually the same arms.  But not being certain I decided to buy the Eibach arms since all the other suspension components I installed were Eibach as well.  As it turned out the “Eibach” arms are made by SPC.

wrenches-297x300Before starting the install make sure you have a set of 18mm boxed end wrenches.  I have three sets of metric boxed end wrenches, all three sets skip from 17mm to 19mm.  A quick trip to the parts house and now I have two 18mm boxed end wrenches, one a long standard wrench and the other a ratcheting end wrench.  You’ll also need a puller like the one pictured.  You can rent one from Autozone or buy one for about $15 with shipping.  I bought this one.

One thing to note about those wrenches.  A lot of ratcheting wrench reverse directions by flipping the wrench.  The one I bought has a flip switch.  This turned out be be a good thing as the clearances on the passenger side rear control arm nut/bolt are really close.

To get started you’ll need to jack up the car and put it on jack stands.  When working on front end parts I like to do one side at a time, with the side I’m working on supported by jack stands so I can get forceful, if needed, with some of the bolts.

If you look in the engine compartment in the area where the struts connect you’ll see nuts on the front and back of what used to be called the shock tower.  The picture below shows the passenger side.  As you can see the passenger side rear is a little cramped.


Remove both of the nuts.  On the rear passenger side I stuffed a rag under the nut so that if I dropped the nut while taking it off, something I tend to do a lot, it wouldn’t drop to an irretrievable location.    The nuts are attached to long bolts, both of which have a tab on them to stop them from turning.   The rear passenger side is where you’ll want that ratcheting 18mm end wrench.

Once you have the car up safely on jack stands and the nuts off you’re ready to move to page 2